Krishna ExperienceThe story of Keshi
Kansa, the tyrant king of Mathura, sent demon after demon to kill the young Krishna. One of them, Keshi, came as a monstrous horse that shook the earth with its hooves. In the Bhagavata Purana's telling (10.37), Krishna thrust his arm into the horse's open mouth, and as his arm swelled the demon choked and died. Krishna is then said to have bathed here. One of his names, Keshava, is sometimes read as slayer of Keshi.
The ghat today
The carved red sandstone pavilions and steps were built by the royal family of Bharatpur; tradition credits Rani Lakshmi Devi. At the north end, the Jugal Kishore temple, one of Vrindavan's older temples, stands back from the water.
- Yamuna aarti: every evening at about sunset, priests wave large lamps to the river while bells ring. Arrive half an hour early.
- Boat rides: boatmen wait on the steps all day. A ride usually costs around ₹100 to ₹150 per person; agree on the price first.
- Deep daan: buy a leaf-boat diya from the sellers on the steps and float it on the river.
Tips
- The most magical times are dawn and sunset, and the whole month of Kartik, when the ghat is lit with lamps every night.
- Monkeys sit on every pavilion. Keep spectacles, phones and prasad out of sight.
- Bathing in the Yamuna here is a sacred act for pilgrims, but the river is polluted; many people sprinkle the water rather than immersing.
Questions people ask
What time is the Yamuna aarti at Keshi Ghat?
Every evening around sunset, roughly 5:30 pm in winter and 7 pm in summer. Arrive early for a good spot.
How much is a boat ride at Keshi Ghat?
Usually around ₹100 to ₹150 per person. Agree on the price before you board.
Why is it called Keshi Ghat?
It is where Krishna is said to have killed Keshi, a horse demon sent by Kansa, and then bathed.